Sewing Pattern #5 - Body / Bodysuit

Updated: 4 days ago


Hello sewing enthusiasts. Learn how to draft a Body / Bodysuit pattern. This pattern is very easy to follow and simply requires minor modifications to the Torso or Dress sloper. What is a bodysuit good for? To give you a fitted tucked in look in my opinion, without worrying about puffed up waist lines, especially when wearing a full skirt for instance.


Measurements

1. Neck depth (as desired)

2. Neck width (as desired)

3. High Hip depth (half of the Hip depth)

4. Crotch Length

5. Crotch Depth

6. Crotch Extension = Crotch Length - (2 x crotch Depth)

How to Draft the Bodysuit

This pattern is designed for a 2-way stretch fabric. If you are using 4-way stretch, you may have to shorten the vertical measurements.




Front

1. Copy Front Torso/Dress block to a new paper. You may remove ease from the pattern if your fabric is very stretchy. Must be effected on both Front and Back. Please refer to Sewing 302 for more on Ease. In the illustration above, I removed 1inch (2.5cm) ease, which 1/4inch (0.6mm) from the front and back.


2. Point A to B - Mark a point about 3inches (6cm) below the armhole. Connect this point to the apex with a straight line. This will be the Bust dart.

Cut the Shoulder dart and the Bust Dart open to the apex.

Pivot in the direction of the arrow to close the Shoulder dart and expand the Bust dart.



3. Point A to B - Mark the Neck depth about 5inches. (12.5cm)


4. Point C to D - Neck width, extend by 1inch (2.5cm).

Join BD with a curved line or your desired neck line shape


5. Point D to E - Draw shoulder and extend it by 1/4inch (6mm),

Point F - Widen chest by 1/4inch (6mm) and

Point G - Lower the Armhole by 1/4inch to 3/8inch (6mm to 1cm).

Connect points EFG to form new armhole. (You can skip adding to the shoulder and chest if this isnfor a sleeveless garment or if your fabric is very stretchy)


6. Point H - Move the bust dart point about 2inches (5cm) away from the apex and redraw the dart. Label darts legs as H1 and H2.


7. Point I - Take note of the width of your waist dart. Subtract this from the waist line at the side to eliminate the dart.


8. Point J - Mark a point at the High hip line on the side or about 1/2 inch (1.2cm) below (this is subject to personal preference). Connect Points G-H1-H-H2-I-J with smooth lines to complete the side.


9. Point K to L - From the waist line at the centre front, measure down the crotch depth and mark it.

Point L to L1- Square out a line 1inch (2.5cm) long. Connect this to point J with a guideline.


10. Point M - At mid point of the guideline, draw a perpendicular line upwards, 2inches (5cm) long. Draw in the curve of the thigh.


11. Below Point L - Add a button extension at the crotch, 1/2 inch (1.2cm) down and a Facing below this, 1/2 inch (1.2cm) down. Make it the same width as Line L-L1.


12. Finally, fold the bust dart closed, and connect the armhole to the waist with a straight line to true the dart.


13. Add 3/8inch (1cm) Seam allowance all round the pattern except the centre front, which is placed on the fold.




Back

14. Copy Back Torso/Dress sloper to new paper. You may remove ease from the pattern if your fabric is very stretchy. Must be effected on both Front and Back.




15. Point A to B - Lower the neck line by 1/2inch (1.2cm)


16. Point C to D - Extend the neck width by 1.25inch (3.1cm). Connect points BD to draw new neck line.


17. Point D to E - Draw Shoulder, ignoring the dart

Point F - Widen Back by 1/4inch (6mm); and

Point G - Lower the Armhole by 1/4 to 3/8inch (0.6mm to 1cm).

Connect all points EFG to form new armhole. (You can skip this for a sleeveless garment)


18. Point H - Take note of the width of your waist dart. Subtract this from the waist line at the side to eliminate the dart.


19. Point I - Mark a point at the High hip line on the side or about 1/2 inch (1.2cm) below (this is subject to personal preference).

Connect Points G-H-I with smooth lines to complete the side.


20. Point J to K - From the waist line at the centre Back, measure down the crotch depth and mark it. From this point we will add the Crotch extension Length. (Crotch Extension = Crotch Length - (2 x crotch Depth))


21. We shall remove some ease from the Crotch extension measurement by multiplying it by 0.9. That is taking off 10%ease.


E.g. If Crotch Ext = 32 - (2 x 12) = 8

Then 8 x 0.9 = 7.2inches

Now Split the new Crotch extension into 2 parts. 2/3 for the Back and 1/3 for the front. Which is 4.8 and 2.4 respectively.


For this particular design, we shall add the full 7.2 to the Back piece so that the button comes towards the front. If you prefer otherwise, you can add the 4.8 to the back only, and the 2.4 to the front instead.


22. Point K to L - Square down Back crotch ext (e.g. 4.8inch)

Point L to L1 - Square out a line 1.5inch (3.7cm) long. Connect this to point I with a guideline.


23. Point M - At midpoint of the guideline, draw a perpendicular line downwards, 1/2inch (1.2cm) long. Draw in the curve of the thigh.


24. Point L to N - Square down Front crotch ext (e.g. 2.4inch)

Point N to N1 - Square out a line 1inch (2.5cm) long.

Connect point L1 to N1 with an inward curved line.


25. Below Point N - Add a button extension at the crotch, 1/2 inch (1.2cm) down and a Facing below this, 1/2 inch (1.2cm) down. Make it the same width as Line N-N1.


26. Add 1/2inch (1.2cm) Seam allowance all round the pattern except the centre Back, which is placed on the fold.


Please watch the video for more details on the drafting process.



Thanks for reading and do leave a comment below if you have any questions. Happy sewing!


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