• Kaine

Sewing 305 (Part 1) - Pattern Drafting: Basic Bodice (2 darts) (Front)

Updated: Oct 22, 2021

Today, we shall be drafting the Basic Bodice Pattern with two darts. This is a slightly different technique from the previous Basic Bodice Block draft. I have mentioned that I prefer not to draft the blocks with the ease included, but we shall be carrying out this exercise with ease, just to see how it is done. You of course have the option not to include ease when filling out the worksheet.

As you know, we shall be drafting half a front pattern and half a back pattern on the assumption that a full front or Back pattern is symmetrical on both left and right sides. You only need to draft a full piece if the left and right hand sides are different in some way.

Since we are working in halves (half front/half back) or in quarters (Quarter of the whole Bodice) depending on how you look at it, some measurements will be divided into 2, and some will be divided into 4. We shall also be drafting in a mirrored view so to speak, where the sides for the front and Back will face each other, and the centre front and centre Back will face away from each other. It will all make sense once we get into the work.

Tools you will need

1. Straight ruler

2. Set square

3. Curve ruler

4. Pencils / Eraser /Sharpener

5. Brown paper/ Drafting Paper – 1 sheet (30L x 30W inches) or (75cm x 75cm). It should be longer than your Neck to Hip length and wider than 1/2 Bust measurement. You can always tape sheets of paper together to get the right size.

Measurements you will need (Feel free to work in Inches or Cm)

• Full length Front (Shoulder to waist)

• Full length Back

• Hip

• Hip depth

• Centre Back

• Neck

• Across shoulder

• Shoulder

• Bust Depth (Shoulder to Bust)

• Full Bust

• Upper Bust

• Across Chest

• Across Back

• Full Waist

• Apex width (Bust span)

• Side

• Arm hole

IMPORTANT! Download Basic Torso Calculation Worksheet Here first

The Front Bodice Draft

To make the most of your paper, start at the bottom left corner.

1. Line A – B = Front full length Measurement

2. Line B - C = Hip depth measurement