Sewing 207 - Pattern Drafting: The Basic Trouser (Pants)
Today we shall draft the Trouser block. From this you can make any style of trousers or shorts and it can even be used for Jumpsuits.
Principles of pattern drafting.
We shall be drafting a whole Front piece and Back piece. Trousers are bifurcated garments as you need two sets of each piece (front and back) for each leg. Depending on the part of the body, some measurements will be divided into 2, and some will be divided into 4. It will all become clearer as we draft.
Tools you will need
Pencils / Eraser /Sharpener
Brown paper/ Drafting Paper - 1 sheet (50L x 50W inches) or 2 sheets ( 50L x 20W inches) each
Measurements you will need (Feel free to work in Inches or Cm)
Outseam (Waist to Floor)
Waist to knee
Upper thigh circumference
BASIC PANTS DRAFTING
1. Leaving a space of about 2 inches (5cm) from the top of the paper, Square a line straight down on the right hand side of the paper. Mark Point A at the top of this line.
2. Point A - B = Hip depth
3. Point A - C = Crotch depth
4. Point A - D = Waist to knee
5. Point A - E = Outseam (waist to floor)
6. Square across guidelines to the left side from points A, B, C, D and E.
7. Line A - F = 1/4 Hip measurement (with ease included)
8. Line F-G-H = Square a straight line down from point F stopping on the crotch line (Line C-I)
9. Line H - I = Front crotch extension measurement
10. Line J-K-L-M = Measure Line C-I and mark mid-point. From this point square a straight line up to the waist line and down to the base line. Label as illustrated (Crease Line)
11. F - * =Move inwards 3/8inch (1cm)
12. Line * - N = Waist + Dart measurement. Square up 3/8 inch (1cm) from point N. Label as n1
13. Points O-P = Insert front dart at Point J. Split front dart measurement equally on either side of point J. Label as O and P.
14. Line J - Q = 1/2 Hip Depth measurement
15. Connect points O - Q and P - Q to form dart
16. Connect point P - n1 with a curved line to complete waist
17. Connect points * - I and n1 - B with curved lines to complete centre front and side as illustrated.
18. Line R - S = 1/2 Knee measurement at Point L. Split the measurement equally on either side of point L. Label as R and S.
19. Line T - U = Line RS minus 2inches (5cm). Split the measurement equally on either side of point M. Label as T and U.
20. Connect Points I - R and C - S with gently curved lines
21. Connect Points R - T and S - U with straight lines
That completes the front part.
The Back is a modification of the front. Copy the front unto new paper and flip it horizontally so that the centre front is now on the right hand side.
22. Line H - 1 = 1/2 of Line H-I (front crotch extension)
23. Line 1 - 2 = Back crotch extension measurement
24. Point J - 3 = 1/4 of Line J - F
25. Point 4 = Join points 1 and 3 with a straight line and extend it pass point 3 by 1.5inch (3.7cm) Label as point 4.
26. Extend the waist from the top corner and hip line out to the left as guidelines (dotted lines)
27. Point 4 - 5 = Measure and mark waist + dart measurement.
28. Point 4 - 6 = Hip Depth measurement
29. Point 6 - 7 = 1/4 Hip measurement (with ease)
30. Join points 5 - 7 and 4 - 2 with curved lines to form centre back and side as illustrated.
31. Highlight Line J - M. This will now be the Crease line for the Back.
32. Line 8 - 9 = Extend Line R-S on each side by 1/2inch (1.2cm). This will make the back 1inch (2.5cm) wider than the front.
33. Line 10 - 11 = Extend Line T-U on each side by 1/2inch (1.2 cm). This will make the back 1inch (2.5cm) wider than the front.
34. Connect Points 7 - 8 and 2 - 9 with gently curved lines
35. Connect Points 8 - 10 and 9 - 11 with straight lines
36. Point 12 = Mark midpoint of line 4-5
37. Split dart measurement equally on either side of point 12. Label as 13 and 14.
38. Point 12 -15 = 3/4 Hip Depth measurement. Make this line perpendicular to line 4-5 or parallel to line 4-6.
39. Connect points 13 - 15 and 14 - 15 to form dart.
This completes the Back.
At this point, you can cross-check that your upper thigh, knee, and foot are at least a little smaller than lines Crotch line (C), Knee Line (D), and Base line (E) respectively of both the front and the back measured together.
Try it out and let me know how it goes. Please watch the video to see the final step on how to true the crotch curves for easy sewing. Do not skip this step.
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