Sewing 208 - Pattern Drafting: How to Draft a Dartless Bodice
Updated: Feb 12
In today's tutorial, we are going to convert the Basic Bodice and the Basic skirt into a dartless Bodice and a dartless dress. This sloper is used for loose fitted dresses or shirts.
Tools you will need
Basic Skirt sloper
Basic Bodice sloper
Pencils / Eraser /Sharpener
Brown paper/ Drafting Paper – 1 sheet (45L x 50W inches) or (115cm x 130cm). It should be long enough to accommodate the bodice and skirt at least to the hip level and wide enough for both front and back. You can, of course, use separate sheets of paper for the front and back and tape sheets of paper together to get the right size.
1. Copy Front bodice sloper onto a new paper
2. Draw the following lines
a) Lower neck to apex
b) Mid-shoulder to apex
c) Lower armhole to apex
d) Second dart leg to apex
3. Cut all lines above to the apex and spread open as follows;
a) 1/4inch (5mm) at neck
b) 1/2inch (1cm) at Shoulder
c) 3/4inch (1.5cm) at Armhole
d) Whatever is left will be in the waist dart.
4. True (Straighten) the lines at the Neck, Shoulder, Armhole and Waist.
1. Copy Back bodice sloper onto a new paper
2. Ignore the presence of the darts at the shoulder and waist
3. True (Straighten) the lines at the Shoulder and Waist.
TRANSFORM INTO DARTLESS DRESS SLOPER
1. A to B - Square a vertical guide line down for centre front of the pattern.
2. C to D - Square a horizontal line midway down the first line for the waist line
3. Copy Dartless Front Bodice sloper above waist line, aligning the centre front to line AB and the waist line to line CD.
4. Copy Front skirt sloper piece below the waist line, aligning skirt centre front to line AB and the waist line to line CD. Ignore the darts on the skirt piece and join side of bodice to side of skirt.
5. Trace around everything to make new pattern.
Repeat steps 1-4 above using the Back Slopers
This completes the Dartless Bodice and Dress pattern. Please let me know how it works out for you. Thanks for reading.
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