• Kaine

Sewing 206 - Pattern Drafting: Basic Dress/Torso

Introduction

In this tutorial, we are going to join the Basic Bodice and the Basic skirt together to form the Basic dress/torso sloper. This sloper can be used for both shirts and dresses depending on the length.


Tools you will need

  1. Basic Skirt sloper

  2. Basic Bodice sloper

  3. Straight ruler

  4. Set square

  5. Curve ruler

  6. Pencils / Eraser /Sharpener

  7. Brown paper/ Drafting Paper – 1 sheet (45L x 50W inches) or (115cm x 130cm). It should be long enough to accommodate the bodice and skirt at least to the hip level and wide enough for both front and back. You can, of course, use separate sheets of paper for the front and back and tape sheets of paper together to get the right size.

FRONT

1. A to B - Square a vertical guideline down for centre front of the pattern.

2. C to D - Square a horizontal line midway down the first line for the waistline

3. Copy Front skirt sloper piece below the waistline, aligning skirt centre front to line AB and the waistline to line CD. Note the points of the dart legs and the hip line

4. Place Front Bodice sloper above waistline, aligning the centre front to line AB and the waist line to line CD. Hold it down temporarily and Trace around as shown stopping at mid-shoulder point.

5. Without lifting up the bodice, Place a pin at the apex and Pivot to the right until the second dart leg of the Bodice touches the second dart leg of the skirt.

6. Trace around the remaining part of the bodice and mark apex point. This should open up a new dart at the shoulder.

7. Remove front Bodice sloper and use a ruler to connect the dart legs at the shoulder to the apex.

8. For the Waist dart, do the following;

a) Note down the width of the waist dart and save it for later

b) E to F - Square a straight line down from the bust apex to the hip line. You can extend this line down to the skirt base.

c) Points G-H - Using this line as the centre of the waist dart, split dart width equally across it for the dart legs, E.g. if dart width is 1inch (2cm), then each side will be 0.5inch (1cm).

d) Connect points E-G-F-H-E to form waist dart.

9. Because of the creation of the Shoulder dart, the side measurement may have changed. It may be longer or shorter than it originally was. Measure the side from the waist upwards and compare to the original measurement. Make your corrections if any, at the underarm point. Redraw Armhole curve from the new side line.


BACK

1. A to B - Square a vertical guideline down for centre back of the pattern.

2. Copy Back skirt sloper piece below the waistline, aligning skirt centre back to line AB and the waistline to line CD. Note the points of the dart legs and the hip line

3. Place Back Bodice sloper above waistline, aligning the centre back to line AB and the waistline to line CD. Hold it down temporarily and Trace around as shown stopping at mid-armhole point.

4. Without lifting up the bodice, Place a pin at the apex and Pivot to the left until the second dart leg of the Bodice touches the second dart leg of the skirt.

5. Trace around the remaining part of the bodice and mark apex point. This should open up a new dart at the armhole.

6. For the Waist dart, repeat step 8 above.

7. Use a ruler to connect the dart legs at the armhole to the apex. Note that if this new dart is 0.25inch (5mm) or less, you can just ignore it and close the gap on the armhole

8. Because of the creation of the Armhole dart, the side measurement may have changed. It may be longer or shorter than it originally was. Measure the side from the waist upwards and compare to the original measurement. Make you corrections if any, at the underarm point. Redraw Armhole curve from the new side line.

This completes the Dress Torso pattern. This can be considered an all-in-one pattern as you can separate it into a Bodice and a Skirt. You can use it for tops, shirts, skirts and dresses.


Please let me know how it works out for you. Thanks for reading.

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