Updated: Sep 19, 2021
Today's article is an in depth technique tutorial on how to make Bias Tape. Bias tape is a strip of fabric cut along the bias of the fabric. See Sewing 107 for details on fabric parts. It is used to finish or bind the edges of fabric or a project mostly. It can also be used to make straps, ties and piping. The advantage of bias tape over strips cut on the straight grain is that
A) It does not fray
B) It can curve around corners
C) It is slightly stretchy
All these features make it excellent for curved edges and hems. It can also be used to tighten necklines and armholes. This is not to say that strips cut on the straight grain have no use, No. They are great for straps, ties and belt loops too because they are strong, but not ideal for curved edges.
There are two basic kinds of Bias tape
1) Single Fold
2) Double fold
They are made exactly the same way, the only difference being an extra fold made in the double fold variation. The type of bias tape you choose to make also affects the finished size of the tape when it is sewn. It'll make more sense in the illustrations below.
How to Cut out Bias tape
• Fold the fabric at a 45° angle, i.e. the width touching the selvedge
• Measure out 2 inch strips along the edge and cut. The size of the strip varies according to the finished size you need.
• For a single fold bias tape- Crease the strip down the middle and Fold the edges to the crease and press.
• For a double fold bias tape - Crease the strip down the middle and fold the edges to the crease and press. Then fold the two edges together again and press
How to determine the width of the bias tape
For those that may have come across readymade bias tape, you can see they are labeled as 1/2 inch single fold bias tape, or 1/4 inch double fold bias tape. This tells you how wide the finished tape is and how many times it was folded.
1) For single fold bias tape - Always multiply by 2. For example, if I want to make 1/2 inch width, then I will cut out 1 inch strips because when you fold it, it will become 1/2 inch wide
2) For double fold bias tape - Always multiply by 4. For example, if I want to make 1/4 inch width, then I will cut out 1 inch strips because when you fold it, it will become 1/4 inch wide
How to use Single fold Bias Tape
1) As a facing, edge finish and Hemming- Open up the fold of the tape and place it right sides together on the fabric edge. The crease on the tape and the stitching line on the fabric should match up. Sew along the crease.
Trim down the seam allowance if necessary. Fold the entire bias tape to the wrong side of the fabric. Press and stitch a second line along the edge of the bias tape.