Sewing Pattern #1 - Kaftan with hidden pockets

Hello sewing enthusiasts. Learn how to sew a kaftan/Bubu with in-seam pockets. This pattern is very easy to follow, it can be drafted directly onto the fabric and can work with any non-stretch fabric.


Measurements

1. Length Plus 2inches (5cm). Length is measured from high shoulder point downwards

2. Bust measurement plus 4 - 6 inches ease (10 - 15cm)

3. Hip measurement plus 4 - 6 inches ease (10 - 15cm)

4. Armhole Depth (2inches above bust depth measurement) (5cm)

5. Hip Depth measurement

6. Neck Depth and width (As desired)

How to Draft the Kaftan


Front Piece

1. Fold the fabric in half along the lengthwise grain. The Length is your desired length plus 2inches (5cm) for seam allowance (Point 0-1a). The width is however wide your fabric is. eg. 45in or 60in, then folded in half.

2. Point 0 - 1 = Create a straight line across the top of your pattern or fabric. From this line, come down 1/2inch (1.2cm) for seam allowance.  

3. Point 1 - 2 = Depth of Neck is your desired measurement. Add 1/2inch (1.2cm) seam allowance above the neckline.

4. Point 1 - 3 = Width of Neck (5inch-7inch) or (12.5cm to 17.5cm)

5. Point 1 - 4 = Armhole/Upperbust depth. 4 - 4a = Bust measurement plus 4inch/6inch (10cm/15cm) ease divided by 4. 

6. Point 1 - 5 = mark waist point, and Point 5 - 6 = mark Hip point 

7. Point 6 - 6a = Hip measurement plus 4inch/6inch (10cm/15cm) ease divided by 4. 

8. Measure 1.5inch (3.7cm) Seam allowance from point 1a for the hem

9. Connect 4a to 6a with a straight line and square a line straight down to the hemline.

10. Stitching lines are shown with red dotted lines.

 

Pocket Placement (Optional)

1. Point 7- Mark high hip point (halfway between waist and hip)  

2. Point 7 - a = Square across a guideline touching the stitching line. This is the start of the pocket placement 

3. Point a - b = Measure down 6inch to 8inch (16cm/20cm) for end of pocket placement

 

Back Piece

1. Repeat the above steps for the back, or trace the front onto the Back except for the neckline.

2. Point 1 - 2A on the back neckline should measure 2inch (5cm) or your preferred depth. The Neck width should be the same as the front point 1 - 3.

 

How to draft the Pockets



You can draw this directly onto the kaftan then copy it onto new paper.

1. Point A - B = Draw a line down about 6inches to 8inches (15cm to 20cm)

2. Point B - C = draw a guideline about 6inches (15cm) wide and midway of that line, draw another line about 10in (25cm) long as (Point D - E)

3. Using these guidelines you may draw a shape as illustrated. You may also use your hand to determine the measurement.

4. Add 0.5in (1.2cm) seam allowance around the pocket piece. You need to cut 4 pocket pieces (2 pairs).

 

How to Sew the Kaftan

Please watch the videos for details on drafting and sewing. Part 1 is the drafting including the facings and Part 2 is the sewing.

 


 

Thanks for reading and do leave a comment below if you have any questions. Happy sewing!