How to Sew a Kaftan/Bubu (with hidden pockets)
Updated: May 8
Hello sewing enthusiasts. Learn how to sew a kaftan/Bubu with in-seam pockets. This pattern is very easy to follow and can be drafted directly onto the fabric.
Length Plus 2inches (4cm). Length is measured from high shoulder point downwards
Bust plus 4 - 6 inches ease (8 - 12cm)
Hip plus 4 - 6 inches ease (8 - 12cm)
Armhole Depth (2inches above bust depth) (4 - 5cm)
Neck line Depth and width (As desired)
How to Draft the Kaftan
1. Fold the fabric in half along the lengthwise grain. The Length is your desired length plus 2inches (4cm) for seam allowance. The width is however wide your fabric is. eg. 45in or 60in, then folded in half.
2. Create a straight line across the top of your pattern or fabric. From this line, come down 0.5inch (1cm) for seam allowance. Mark point A. (shown in pink)
3. Point A - A1 = Width of Neck (5in-7in)(10cm to 14cm)
4. Point A - B = Depth of Neck is your desired measurement (Add 0.5in (1cm)seam allowance to the neckline)(Shown in pink)
5. Point A - C = Armhole/Upperbust depth. C - C1 = Bust plus 4in/6inch (8cm/12cm) ease divided by 4.
6. Point A - D = mark waist point, and Point D - E = mark Hip point
7. Point E - E1 = Hip plus 4in/6inch (8cm/12cm) ease divided by 4.
8. Point A - F = Length of Kaftan. Add 1.5in (3cm) Seam allowance for the hem (Shown in Pink)
9. Connect C1 to E1 with a straight line and square a line straight down to the hemline. This is the stitching line. (Shown with dotted line)
Pocket Placement (Optional)
1. Point G - Mark high hip point (halfway between waist and hip)
2. Point G - H = Square across a guideline touching the stitching line. This is the start of the pocket placement
3. Point H - I = Measure down 6in to 8in (12cm/16cm) for end of pocket placement
1. Repeat the above steps for the back, or trace the front onto the Back except for the neckline.
2. Point A - B on the back neckline should measure 1in (2cm) or your preferred depth.
How to draft the Pockets
1. Point A - B - Square a line down about 6in to 8in (12cm to 16cm)
2. From Point B draw a guideline about 8in wide and midway of that line, draw another line about 10in long as illustrated above.
3. Using these guidelines you may draw a shape as illustrated. You may also use your hand to determine the measurement.
4. Add 0.5in (1cm) seam allowance around the pocket piece (shown in blue). You need to cut 4 pockets pieces (2 pairs).
How to Sew the Kaftan
Please watch the videos for details on drafting and sewing. Part 1 is the drafting including the facings and Part 2 is the sewing.
Thanks for reading and do leave a comment below if you have any questions. Happy sewing!